'Til Next Year, Plaids!

Despite it being literally 16 degrees outside, I put away for the year the winter woolens that I did not get a chance to sew.

I am tired of wearing plaids and dark tweedy knits when fall is over and the new year begins.  Deep brown, dark green, maroon feel so very autumnal, and while Jan., Feb., and March are obvs winter months, I'm ready for lighter colors.  But because of the arctic temps, the garments still have to be in heavy fabrics. 

I'm really inspired by J Crew's color combos.  I generally dislike wearing pastels - I'm definitely a neutrals kinda gal. But I am so drawn to this outfit of blush pastels in JCrew's recent mailer. I want a creamy peach, or barely pink pencil skirt NOW.

Isn't the color combo here genius?

Michelle Obama's outfits in this InStyle feature would also be perfect - the colorful skirts topped with warm sweaters:

I left out this woolen that I picked up at Paron's Annex in the summer.

I need help deciding what jacket to make with it: I'm leaning towards the DKNY jacket Vogue 1067 because of the peter pan collar.  At first I was going to make a classic Chanel-style,  but I'd have to add trim, which I fear would compete with the colorful weave. 

Do you also struggle with what to wear in these in-between months?  What colors do you wear?

My New Years Sewing Resolution is to begin sewing clothes earlier in the season, so that I have items to wear when that season's weather arrives.  So don't be suprised to see floaty dresses in the upcoming months!  Hold me to this!

It's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year

There's just no time to sew!  I've been following your blogs, and I don't know how you all are finding the time.  I've spent the past few weekends baking cookies with my mother-in-law (she makes close to one hundred different kinds each year - it's crazy!).  The weeknights have been filled with shopping, holiday strolls... and watching Christmas movies while drinking eggnog and bourbon (discovered that combo this year... so bad).

I've actually worked on a few projects - ripping apart the unflattering black skirt, starting another one, and beginning a DIY knock-off of a Michael Kors coat (can't wait to finish it and post the styled pics!).  I simply haven't had time to sit down and finish the hand sewing.

In the past three weeks since returning from vacation, I've finished one project: placemats for my mother-in-law for Christmas.  I used instructions from Martha Stewart, but used thin batting instead of interfacing, and did a double row of top stitching.

I have next week off, but am going home to Pennsylvania for Christmas, so the placemats will probably be the last sewing I'll do this year.  Much more planned once life is back to normal.  Enjoy the holidays, and happy sewing... even if it's only in your dreams....

Vogue 8511

A few years ago at Christmastime, I got the idea that I wanted a long-sleeved dress for the office holiday party.  I was never able to find it.  The stores had a smattering of long-sleeve jersey dresses, but no long-sleeved wool or cotton dresses.  I'm so glad that I can make my own now.

Back's a bit wrinkly from sitting at my desk all day...

This is the long-sleeved version of Vogue 8511.  I luhv the skirt's double pleats, with a single inverted pleat in the middle.  I think it's a very distinct detail.

The fabric is a cotton/wool blend from WinMil Fabrics in Boston.

I'm not super thrilled with the sleeves.  They are wider than the envelope picture indicates.  The shoulders are slightly dropped as well, so are less fitted than I'd have prefered.  However, the pattern would likely not be Very Easy Vogue if the top were more tailored.

Only the bodice of this dress is lined; I put a full lining in this dress for winter-wear.  I did a straight lining, using the skirt back as a guide.  The bodice is shaped by princess seams, which were so easy to sew.  Even the sleeves went in very easily.  I inserted an invisible zipper, which for some reason did not want to go in easily.  All of these steps made the dress relatively time-consuming.  Thankfully, I did figure out how to insert the lining by machine, which saved a ton of time!

The dress could veer into prim territory - so when I wore it to work today, I paired it with sexy pumps, a loose ponytail, and what I think are my slightly subversive vintage specs from Brimfield.  I was going for a Michael Kors look:

(I am endlessly inspired by his Fall 2008 RTW show.)

Overall, I really like this dress.  A lady at the elevator said: "That's a great dress you're wearing - it's.... different."  In a good way, I think!

* * *

Off to Paris Saturday night, and I need to pack.  I'm remembering the advice to pack light.  Have a great Thanksgiving week!

Inserting a Dress Lining by Machine

I am very proud of myself for figuring out how to attach a dress lining by machine.  I can now avoid slip stitching linings to the zipper as most patterns indicate.

Ok, I can't take the credit for myself, because I adapted Two On Two Off's tutorial on attaching a skirt facing by machine.  And many sewers probably already do this.

After attaching the invisible zipper, I turned the dress inside out so that the dress and linings' right sides were together.  The zipper is on the inside, underneath the lining. 

Using a regular zipper foot, I stitched down the center back seam to the end of the zipper.  You can't sew too close to the zipper underneath or it will be difficult to zip it up when turned right side out. 

Here is the inside with the dress turned right side out:

Yay, no hand-stitching!

Growing A Stash

Saturday's Pattern Review meet-up in NYC was such a great time.  About 20 sewers (including bloggers Sheila, Andrea, Tricia, and Nancy) met up to visit Metro Textiles, Mood, Greenberg & Hammer, Rosen & Chadick, Paron's, and Pacific Trim.  It was a long, but extremely fun and inspiring day.

I had never been to Metro, so I had to add a few fabrics from there to my "collection".  A sewer had commented that she doesn't know how people leave there without buying something.  I completely agree.  The selection is great, and the prices unreal for the quality - even less than Paron's.  At Metro I purchased a thick black and white striped-wool ($12/yard) and - my favorite - an amazing graphic Japanese cotton, unlike anything I own, which is so soft it feels like silk (at an unbelievable $5/yard).  Kashi had a few variations of this print.  It'll go into the pile for a spring/summer dress.

At Paron's (where I always find something), I picked up another gold fabric for another gold shell (since I cannot stop wearing the first one), and a lightweight wool with a bit of stretch for planned skinny trousers. 

PRer Annette commented that I am growing quite a stash for a budding sewist.  I'm sure it does not rival Carolyn's famed closet, but I'm afraid it is growing out of control.  I have a visible pile of imminent projects (those I'd like to complete in the next month or so):

Plus a bag and storage bin under the bed stuffed full.  I'm a rabid anti-hoarder, so this stash is beginning to bother me.  I have enough to keep me entertained for the next few months - probably even through the spring.  So I'm placing a moratorium on new fabric purchases for the next few months.  (How unlikely is this to succeed?  Do any sewers not have a stash??  I'd like to be one of those sewers!) 

* * *

Thank you for the honest feedback on the poufy skirt and your suggestions to re-do the back, which I actually hadn't thought of.  I'm going to take it apart, and play around with whether the back would look best straight or with fewer gathers.  I'll keep you posted!

I took a step back from the skirt to work on Vogue 8511.  The pattern has been a breeze to sew (minimal ease in the sleeves, very easy princess seamed-bodice), but my major dislike is that only the bodice (and not the sleeves or skirt) is lined.

I lined the sleeves, and would like to line the skirt as well.  The front of the skirt is heavily pleated.  What would work best: to draft a straight skirt lining (using the straight back pattern pieces as a guide), or pleat the lining like the skirt?  I'm leaning towards a straight lining so that the pleats are not affected by a pleated lining underneath. 

Don't know if I'm loving this one...

I completed a second version of Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 2512.  I added seam allowances to the yoke to avoid the self-binding, and removed the tie waist:

I don't think I love it.  It's actually kind of cute from the front, but the pouf just does not work in the back:

I am sure the problem is that I used a wool - a mid-weight wool, but a wool nonetheless.  It is too bulky for this skirt, and the gathers don't hang properly.  I had fair warning: while the the pattern calls for some heavier-weight fabrics as options, wool was not one, so I am not blaming the pattern at all.  I still might make this again in the summer - I do think it would be fabulous in a tissue-weight cotton.  I really like the different shape.  It is just not working here.

Eh, I was bummed, because I was going to wear this on my upcoming trip.  But you win some, you lose some, and I have high hopes for Vogue 8511 (*knocking on wood*).  At least the weekend is almost here.  Enjoy!

Sewing a Travel Wardrobe

My mother and little sister and I are travelling to Paris and England Thanksgiving week, and I am planning to sew a few new items to wear on the trip.

The family hasn't been on vacation together since an ill-fated trip to Wildwood, New Jersey in the late 1990's. My Mom saw a Travel Channel program about 1950's "retro" hotels in Wildwood, and being a vintage-enthusiast, she thought that it would be a fabulous place for a summer getaway. Unfortunately, upon arrival, we discovered that our hotel had not been updated since the 1950's... So an exciting, girly vacation is definitely owing.

Comfortable footwear is my number one travel-wear concern, and I'm planning what clothes I’ll bring around them. In addition to an old pair of well-worn, super-comfy Puma sneaks, I’m bringing a pair of black pointy-toe flats, and black low-heeled, knee –high boots… that I’m still trying to find.

I’m making another version of Simplicity 2512 in a black wool.

It should be very versatile; I’m planning to wear it layered with cardigans and jackets.

I’d like to bring a dress, as well. I worked on a muslin of Vogue 8530 all of last weekend, but it ended up being a wadder: it was a bit too shapeless (though it might be a cute, breezy summer dress).

Instead, I’m going to make Vogue 8511 in a black and white flecked wool blend. I’ve been drooling over this pattern for months – I love the idea of a dress with long sleeves.

It’d be great if I could sew another skirt – envisioning a shortened version of Simplicity 2758 in a lightweight grey wool - but I don’t know if I’ll have enough time, as I need to make a pair of long gloves as well….

On top of all of this, I'm still working on an itinerary! We're taking the Eurostar to the UK mid-week for 2 days to visit our relatives in East Sussex.  Other than that, I know we'll do Versailles, the Louvre, a night-time boat tour, obviously the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame... but I still need to determine what neighborhoods to roam around, where to shop, and most importantly, what to eat!  I know less than  a week is not enough time to see Paris, but I hope we'll be able to get a thorough overview of the city.    If you have any Paris tips, let me know.

* * *

A few ladies have posted about Pattern Review Day in New York this Saturday.  I'm going to attend, and would love to meet others there.  Drop me a line if you're going, too.

I (Heart) Pendleton

A sewer on Pattern Review last week posted a shirt that she had made from Pendleton fabric bought from the Pendleton Mill Outlet in Washougal, Washington. There is a Pendleton outlet that sells fabric??? I hate how a $500 plane ticket and 2,000 miles separate me from Washougal, Washington. What I wouldn't give to purchase yards and yards of fine Pendleton woolens and plaids at steeply discounted prices. Has anyone been to this Shangri-la?

Actually, don’t tell me - I'll be too consumed with jealousy.

I have been obsessed with Pendleton for years. In the early 80's, before online shopping, and malls, really, (at least where I grew up), my Mom used to buy Pendleton suits from an sporting goods shop that sold Pendleton clothes, in addition to gun racks and live bait. Last year she gave me a skirt suit from that time - it is of such great quality that she kept it for over 20 years.

As this was before I began sewing, I had a tailor alter the jacket to fit me, and remove the extreme A-line of the skirt so that it is now a slim, high-waist pencil skirt instead of a high-rise A-line that widened my pear-ish shape. (The alterations to the jacket and skirt cost well over $100 - further circumstantial evidence that magazines' suggestions to have garments tailored is not a viable wardrobe option for those on a budget. Why don't magazines ever suggest: "learn to sew"?!.)

My favorite Pendleton dud is this cape I purchased a few years ago:

It is perfect for dressy occasions, but, I think, is very wearable casually as well. I often pair it with jeans and flats in the fall.

I was pleased to see that Pendleton's rustic Americana appeal has been embraced by the fashion hip. Pendleton produced a capsule collection for the uber-hip Opening Ceremony boutique in NYC:

Pendleton's own collection has become a bit more stylish in the past few years. I used to troll only for outerwear, because its clothing, aside from the perennially spot-on blazers, used to consist primarily of mock turtlenecks and tapered-leg trousers. While it still has that, the offerings are much more modern:

I think Pendleton's design team did a great job in offering more modern cuts that still retain the company's classic vibe. But, I'm a Pendleton lover, so I'm biased.

* * *

While we're on the topic of obsessions, I can't stop wearing my gold shell! 

DIY Seam Guide

I read about this tip in a few places, and finally remembered to try it out this weekend: using post-its as a seam guide. 

Wow, a seam guide is great.  I can concentrate on the stitches rather than the seam allowance.  Curves are easier: I'm usually tugging the fabric to keep it on the 5/8" line, but it was easier to anticipate the upcoming curve with the large, visible seam guide.  I'd been meaning to buy a magnetic guide, but no need with this cheap, DIY option.  I wish I had been using it since day one.

First (completed) jacket

Jackets are my uniform - even on the weekends, I love wearing a jacket with jeans.  So I've been wanting to make a jacket since I started sewing, but obviously, it's a big project to take on when one has not even sewn a dozen pieces.  And my first attempt at a boxy jacket did not go well.

Simplicity 3628 had great reviews on PR, and I liked that the jacket's shape was fitted, and could be either casual or work-appropriate (sometimes I find jackets with traditional lapels tough to wear casually).  I made view B:

So that I wouldn't be upset if this did not work out I used a wool/cotton that I picked up at JoAnn's on the cheap a while ago.  Despite going into this with low expectations, and trying to view it as more of a learning experience, I let this jacket take me for a ride emotionally: I tried it on before I made the lining, and was convinced that it was a terribly ill-fitting failure.  Seriously, I went to bed close to tears.

I plodded through, mainly to practice construction details.  It started to look a bit better once the lining was in, and after I had the buttons on I realized... it wasn't terrible.  In fact, I'll be able to wear this!  (Click the picture for a bigger view.)

I belt everything.

I think the collar is great - it stands up, but can be folded down as well:

There is a bit of wrinkling to the left of the collar.  Not sure if this is shoddy interfacing or if I attached the collar poorly.  The collar eased in quite nicely, so I think it may be interfacing.  I don't think it is terribly noticeable (wishful thinking?).

I must say, I think the back fits perfectly!:

Really, I had no fitting issues.  The shoulders could potentially be moved in a bit.  I realized when I was working on this that even if I did have fitting issues, I wouldn't know how to correct them.  It's one thing to let out the side seams slightly on a skirt, a whole other to move in the shoulders on a multi-part jacket front.  I didn't really think my lack of fitting ability through before I started this.  I'm not the most logical or analytical person.  That's why I went to law school. ;)

This jacket is very well drafted.  There did not seem to be excessive ease in the sleeves: they went in very easily (that's saying a lot for me).  The best part of this pattern is that it requires only a few inches of hand sewing at the bottom of the back lining.  The rest is inserted on the machine. 

I highly recommend this pattern as an easy fitted jacket.  I will definitely be making this again.  But first, I'm going to find a good book on fitting jackets.